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September 10, 2021 7 min read
I grew up in New England, and few things remind me of fall more than a big pot of baked beans served on a crisp day. The baked beans of my childhood are, to my now grown-up palate, a little too sweet, so I wanted to update the recipe. Rather than the traditional salt pork, or even bacon, I opted for smoked ham hocks, which has become my go-to meat to add flavor and decadence to beans. Apart from adding that rich, umami, porky goodness, they add a layer of smokiness, something I imagine you'd get from cooking these in an old wood stove or over a campfire.
Many recipes use ketchup or tomato paste to help thicken the broth into that signature shiny, syrupy sauce, but I've never been a fan of that method. Instead, we par-cook the beans with aromatic vegetables until just tender, then use that starchy, flavorful bean broth as the base for our sauce. As the sauce reduces in the oven, we get the same effect without unnecessary ingredients so that the beans are the real star of the show. I've also used some classic fall flavors, like ginger and fresh sage, to really make the dish feel special and seasonal (although come on, who's gonna stop you from making these beans all year round?!).
With just a few small changes, these baked beans have gone from the side dish I'd have a few spoonfuls of before moving on to more savory fare, to something I'd be happy to have as a meal all on their own! I hope you feel the same.
NOTE: If you're not keen on using meat in this dish, you can mimic the flavors you'd get from pork hocks by substituting smoked salt for the kosher salt used in the recipe, and by adding a teaspoon of Marmite and/or a tablespoon of soy sauce before you begin baking the beans.
–Jarrett Melendez, recipe developer and author
Check out our interview with the recipe creator!
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What makes Jarrett's updated baked beans so successful is how he addresses the common issues with traditional recipes while maintaining the dish's essential character. He reduces the sweetness that made childhood versions too cloying, uses smoked ham hocks instead of salt pork for deeper flavor, and eliminates ketchup in favor of the beans' own starchy broth for thickening.
As Jarrett describes, the result is baked beans that have transformed "from the side dish I'd have a few spoonfuls of before moving on to more savory fare, to something I'd be happy to have as a meal all on their own." That's high praise and suggests these truly are an improvement on the classic.
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Jarrett's opening, "I grew up in New England, and few things remind me of fall more than a big pot of baked beans served on a crisp day", establishes both his authority and the regional specificity. Boston baked beans are iconic New England fare, traditionally made with navy beans, molasses, salt pork, and long, slow baking.
This recipe honors that tradition while updating it for contemporary tastes that prefer less sweetness and more complexity.
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Let's talk about Alubia beans and why they're ideal for baking. These medium-sized white Spanish beans are similar to cannellini but with their own distinctive character, creamy texture, mild flavor, and the ability to hold their shape through long cooking.
What makes Alubia beans perfect for baked beans is their firm structure that withstands 4-5 hours of oven baking without falling apart, their creamy interior that becomes incredibly tender, and their starchy cooking liquid that creates the signature thick, syrupy sauce.
When baked with smoked ham hocks, molasses, maple syrup, and fall spices, these beans become "super tender and creamy" while maintaining their shape and creating that sticky, rich sauce that defines great baked beans.
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Rather than traditional salt pork or bacon, Jarrett uses smoked pork hocks, "my go-to meat to add flavor and decadence to beans." Ham hocks provide "rich, umami, porky goodness" plus "a layer of smokiness, something I imagine you'd get from cooking these in an old wood stove or over a campfire."
This choice adds depth and complexity that salt pork can't match. The hocks cook slowly with the beans, their collagen breaking down and enriching the sauce while the meat becomes fall-apart tender.
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Jarrett provides thoughtful guidance for making vegetarian baked beans: substitute smoked salt for kosher salt, and add a teaspoon of Marmite and/or a tablespoon of soy sauce before baking.
This combination mimics the umami and smoky depth that pork hocks provide, the smoked salt adds smokiness, while Marmite and soy sauce contribute savory, umami richness.
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The recipe's title highlights the "no-ketchup" aspect, which Jarrett explains: "Many recipes use ketchup or tomato paste to help thicken the broth into that signature shiny, syrupy sauce, but I've never been a fan of that method."
Instead, he uses the beans' own starchy broth as the base for the sauce. As the sauce reduces during long baking, "we get the same effect without unnecessary ingredients so that the beans are the real star of the show."
This approach is both simpler and more pure, letting bean flavor shine rather than masking it with tomato products.
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Add soaked beans (soaked overnight), halved carrots, and a whole peeled onion to a large Dutch oven. Cover with cold water by about 3 inches. Bring to a boil, reduce to a steady simmer, and cook until just tender.
Discard the carrots and onion (they've infused their flavors), drain the beans into a bowl, and crucially, reserve the broth. This starchy, flavorful liquid becomes the base for the sauce.
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Return the Dutch oven to the stove, add oil, and heat over medium-high until shimmering. Add diced onions and cook, stirring constantly, until translucent and just beginning to brown on the edges.
This caramelized onion provides sweetness and depth that complements the molasses and maple syrup.
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Add the cooked beans back to the Dutch oven along with pork hocks and just enough bean broth to cover the beans (it's okay if the hocks stick out). Stir in molasses, maple syrup, spicy brown mustard, ground ginger, fresh sage sprigs, bay leaf, salt, and pepper. Bring to a simmer.
Transfer to a 325°F oven and bake uncovered for 4-5 hours until the beans are "super tender and creamy." Check every 60-90 minutes, stirring each time and adding more bean broth as needed to keep the beans just submerged.
This long, slow baking is essential. It allows flavors to meld, the sauce to reduce and concentrate, and the beans to become incredibly tender while the pork hocks break down.
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Jarrett notes he's "used some classic fall flavors, like ginger and fresh sage, to really make the dish feel special and seasonal." These additions distinguish his version from traditional recipes:
Combined with molasses and maple syrup (both fall harvests), these create baked beans that taste decidedly seasonal.
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When done, the broth should be "thick, rich, and sticky." If too thick, thin with boiling water. If too thin, simmer on the stove until it reaches the desired consistency.
Getting this sauce right is what makes baked beans special, it should coat the beans glossily, not be watery or soup-like, but also not so thick it's pasty.
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Jarrett's childhood baked beans were "a little too sweet," so he's adjusted the sweetness level. The recipe uses half a cup each of molasses and maple syrup, which is substantial but balanced by:
The result is sweet but not cloying, with complexity that makes them satisfying rather than one-dimensional.
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Jarrett's goal was creating baked beans that could be "a meal all on their own" rather than just a side dish. The combination of beans (protein and fiber), pork hocks (richness and flavor), and the substantial, sticky sauce creates something hearty enough to be the main event.
Serve with cornbread and coleslaw for a complete New England-style meal.
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This recipe is part of the Food Memories series, "a rotating collection of stories from our favorite home cooks, chefs, and bean enthusiasts, featuring all your favorite beans and showcasing recipes, tips, and bean magic from around the world."
Jarrett's story about childhood fall memories and updating a regional classic fits perfectly into this series celebrating how food connects to memory and place.
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While Jarrett frames these as fall food, he adds a playful aside: "although come on, who's gonna stop you from making these beans all year round?!" This is true, while they feel especially appropriate for crisp autumn days, good baked beans are welcome any time.
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The recipe notes to "Check out our interview with the recipe creator!" This provides additional context about Jarrett's cooking philosophy and approach to recipe development.
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What makes this recipe special is how thoughtfully Jarrett has updated a classic. He hasn't radically changed baked beans, they're still sweet, sticky, slow-baked beans with pork. But by adjusting sweetness, choosing better pork, eliminating unnecessary ingredients, and adding seasonal flavors, he's created a version that feels both traditional and contemporary.
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Every recipe here was developed and tested using farm-fresh beans from Foodocracy and Primary Beans. Older beans, anything past a year in your pantry or beans from other sources may need more coaxing. Give them a soak and add extra cooking time, and they'll get there eventually.
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Rated 5.0 stars by 1 users
Side Dish
American
Creator notes I grew up in New England, and few things remind me of fall more than a big pot of baked beans served on a crisp day. Rather than traditional salt pork, I opted for smoked ham hocks. Instead of using ketchup to thicken the broth, we use that starchy, flavorful bean broth as the base for our sauce so that the beans are the real star of the show. I've also used some classic fall flavors, like ginger and fresh sage, to really make the dish feel special and seasonal.
–Jarrett Melendez, recipe developer and author
Featured bean: AlubiaÂ
Other beans to try: Speckled Bayo
1 lb Primary Beans firm beans (such as Alubia, Bayo, or Speckled Bayo), soaked overnight
2 large carrots, halved
1 large onion, peeled, ends trimmed
2 tbsp neutral oil
1 large onion, diced
2 small smoked pork hocks (about 8-12 oz total)
½ cup unsulphured molasses (not blackstrap)
½ cup maple syrup
1 tbsp spicy brown mustard
1 tsp ground ginger
2 sprigs fresh sage
1 bay leaf
2 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 tsp fresh ground black pepper
Add beans, carrots, and peeled onion to a large Dutch oven. Add cold water until the beans are covered by about 3 inches. Cook over high heat until boiling, then reduce to a steady simmer and cook until just tender. Discard carrots and onion and drain beans into a bowl, reserving the broth. Heat the oven to 325 degrees.
Return the Dutch oven to the stove, add oil, and heat over medium-high until shimmering. Add diced onions and cook, stirring constantly, until translucent and just beginning to turn brown on the edges.
Add the cooked beans back to the Dutch oven, along with pork hocks, and just enough bean broth for the beans to be covered, reserving any additional broth (it's okay if pork hocks stick out above the liquid). Stir in remaining ingredients and bring to a simmer.
Transfer the Dutch oven to the oven and bake, uncovered, for 4-5 hours until beans are super tender and creamy, checking every 60-90 minutes and stirring each time. Add more bean broth as needed to keep the beans just submerged.
Remove the beans from the oven, and stir. The broth should be thick, rich, and sticky. If you find that the broth is too thick, you can thin it out by stirring in a little bit of boiling water. If the broth is too thin, simmer on the stove until the desired consistency is reached. Adjust seasoning to taste, and serve warm.
Serves: 6-8
Time: 4-5 hours (plus bean soaking and cooking time)
Cookware: large Dutch oven
If you're not keen on using meat, substitute smoked salt for kosher salt, and add a teaspoon of Marmite and/or a tablespoon of soy sauce before baking.
Every recipe here was developed and tested using farm-fresh beans from Foodocracy and Primary Beans. Older beans, anything past a year in your pantry, or beans from other sources may need more coaxing. Give them a soak and add extra cooking time, and they'll get there eventually.
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