June 03, 2021 4 min read
Take a bite of edible history in an easy, mouthwatering cornbread using heirloom Jimmy Red Cornmeal and Whole Pima Corn. With a crispy, perfect outside and delicate inside speckled with chewy, slightly smoky whole pima corn you'll think you've died and gone to corn heaven.
This delicious Ark of Taste heirloom cornmeal is sweeter, fresher and more flavorful than conventional brands. Jimmy Red is a bright red corn with a colorful history and a celebrated reputation with chefs. Now protected in the Slow Food Ark of Taste, Jimmy Red was a Native American corn that made its way south to Florida, Georgia and the South Carolina Islands where it was largely used to create moonshine. It was not well known outside of bootlegger circles until the last of the bootleggers passed away and nearly took Jimmy Red with him. Lucky for us someone saved a couple of ears and gave them to a celebrated farmer and seed saver who found that this unique variety was good for much more than hooch. He gave seeds to several small farmers including Geechie Boy Mill who makes spectacular grits and cornmeal with the grain.
Cornbread has been adapted by every cook and culture that has touched it from Native Americans that invented it to enslaved people who made it into what we know today. Native Americans were making cornbread for thousands of years before European settlers came to our country. How it was prepared varied by region and tribe. The Hopi people boiled it into something we would consider a dumpling and they made small, flat pancake style cakes that are the culinary ancestor to our modern cornbread. Other tribes added fats, berries and nuts.
European colonists combined it with flour and added eggs and sometimes yeast to make it lighter and more like the bread they were accustomed to. Along the North Eastern seaboard Johnnycakes were a favorite. What we largely think of as cornbread though is largely owed to enslaved people in the south who adapted dishes like "kusha" from West Africa to use this new world grain.
In the south the debate of sugar or no sugar in cornbread is a heated one that tend to fall along race lines. You'll find many white southern cooks that will swear cornbread containing sugar is cake not cornbread. It turns out though that no-one added sweetener to cornbread prior to the early 1900s. Sugar was expensive and cornbread is a humble dish. Southern cornbread included lard or bacon fat and no sugar or honey. Most people served it with plenty of sorghum syrup or honey to drizzle on top and didn't find the need to sweeten the bread itself. Around 1910 tough we start to see black cookbook recipes call for sugar. Food historians believe this is due to changes in cornmeal from industrialized farming and milling. The white south though continued using more expensive cornmeal and kept making it without sugar beginning the great debate over what should be considered true southern cornbread.
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